Author: Joseph Kellner

Hairdresser/Mua/Photographer/Film-Maker/Artist in Orlando, Florida 34787

Terms You Should Know In The Beauty Industry.

~ Joseph Kellner

 

  • Free From~ This statement has become the mantra for large commercial brands, with the smaller brands following suit as a way to convey that their product is somehow safer than their competitors.
    • Danger of Claim: It can reinforce the idea that if something is “free from” a certain ingredient, that the missing ingredient is somehow “dangerous.”  And what was once part of the formula has since been removed, when it may have never been in the product in the first place.  This is marketing to the consumer that has been led to believe natural is better and everything else will kill them. Example: Parabens, sulfates, etc. get a bad rap, when there is actually scientific data that shows these are perfectly safe for personal care use in the recommended dosages within the cosmetic formula.  Or if it is a leave on or rinse off product will also determine ratios.  Any chemical in its full strength has the potential for causing harm, yet these are not offered to the end user, ever.
  • Chemical Free~ Another claim that bears no reality in truth or common sense.  Nothing formulated can be without chemicals as all things are chemical…natural or synthetic, makes no difference, it is just the manner in which they are derived or created.  Again, shamelessly used for SCARE tactic marketing.
    • Danger of Claim: This connotes the idea, all things chemical are hazardous to our health…..think of water, essential oils, olive oil, etc…..these appear to be benign now don’t they? However, from the point of view of the overstated 60% absorption claim, these are all potential penetration enhancers.  This claim also overlooks the fact of what the product is packaged in.  There is no getting around the chemical processes that goes into creating the packaging, such as a jar or tube, technically.
  • Hypoallergenic or Noncomedogenic~ These terms are not even recognized by the FDA and there actually isn’t any proven data in clinical trials, and has yet to be tested by the US Food and Drug Administration as to the validity of such terms.
    • Danger of Claim: Any ingredient could cause a problem for any individual and this connotes that it won’t cause a problem….sorry, but trial and error only, unfortunately.  Up to 10% of the population can and will have a reaction to something the majority of the population won’t have.  This includes a developed allergy after using an ingredient for years.  Our bodies are ever changing.  Those with acne may have a similar reaction. What won’t cause acne on one individual may be horribly occlusive to another.
  • Dermatologist / Clinically Tested~ This is a claim that can be made based on a single doctor trying it out on themselves or a patient.  Based on this perception it is theorized by the end user, it must be a proven product. A clinical study performed by the manufacturer on a small number of people will not constitute nationally, what can occur if millions use the product.
    • Danger of Claim: Gives the perception that it must be safe and work because a doctor or a clinical study said so, but is not necessarily the reality. Safety and efficacy data will change as high volume of users join the pool, and this is PURE marketing! 
  • Anti-aging Formula~ This ties into penetration enhancers being utilized within a skin cream and are designed to assist beneficial ingredients in penetrating into the otherwise impermeable surface layers of the skin to restore soft, supple skin with more elasticity.
    • Danger of Claim: EWG and Campaign for Safe Cosmetics have underscored this message as a penetration enhancer being the carrier of chemicals to the blood stream.  When in reality, penetration enhancers for the purpose of cosmetics are only skin deep and are not geared toward penetration through the dermis layer into the blood brain barrier as would be the desired effect with a topical drug.  Permanent change does not occur with any cosmetic, and only maintains the skin as long as the product is being used.
  • Non Toxic / Harmful Chemicals~ What does this even mean?  Who and what entity is deciding what is toxic or not?  This is yet to be determined and will continue to be debatable since EWG and CFSC think anything, other than naturally derived, is toxic to our bodies.  The majority of scientific research does not support the validity of this marketing claim.  Plus, too much of anything natural or synthetic can cause issues for some.
    • Danger of Claim: This statement plays into the fears of the consumer and reinforces the CFSC’s campaign rhetoric against beauty industry leaders and their products.  Such as lead being added to lipstick which is categorically FALSE and is considered a contaminant, which is found also in drinking water and the foods we eat that are grown in the ground.
  • 100% Pure / Natural / Organic~ This connotes that only natural chemicals are safe for the body and that synthetic chemicals are the bane of our existence and will give us cancer or worse. There is no human scientific data to support this claim.  And animal studies do not extrapolate to humans despite how hard watchdog groups try to convince us.
    • Danger of Claim: Beauty products labeled as natural are less tested and scrutinized than are synthetic products and pharmaceuticals. In fact, most compounds as they exist in their natural state cannot be formulated into skin care products. They first must be chemically altered before they can be incorporated into cosmetics, thereby negating the claim of being pure and natural.
  • FDA Approved ~ This marketing claim gives the unwitting consumer the idea the product is endorsed by the FDA, and the product must have been tested by the FDA to show proof of the companies claim of safety and / or efficacy.
    • Danger of Claim: This is outright FALSE and is actually in violation of FDA regulation.  FDA does not approve any finished product for the end user in the cosmetic and beauty industry.  Only prescription and OTC drugs and medical devices are FDA approved for their intended purpose.
  • Does Not Contain Fillers~ This marketing claim is designed to intimate that their product is formulated with nothing but pure and essential ingredients only, and that no fillers are used to create a less than desirable product, supposedly.
    • Danger of Claim: This insinuates that somehow a filler ingredient is cheap and makes another product substandard.  Unfortunately, this bears no weight in actual truth.  Those that claim their ingredients are the ultimate and then claim fillers as bad, are also ingredients that are used as filler.  Mica for instance is not only an essential ingredient to the formulation of the majority of mineral makeup, but it is also a FILLER ingredient.  By definition a filler ingredient is used for finish of product, bulking agent, or any ingredient utilized for the desired effect for smooth application.  There is no actual separation of the two.  Water can be considered a filler ingredient, since it is not typically essential but makes up the bulk of many skin care products.
  • Non Irritating~ This gives the end user of a product the assurance that their otherwise sensitive skin, will not have any problem with the product.  This expands on item 3.
    • Danger of Claim: The problem with this claim is everyone’s skin is different.  There are ingredients that have a long standing history of safety and efficacy, yet there will be the small percentile that will have irritation when using it.  Mineral makeup for instance works well for the majority of women, Bismuth Oxychloride excluded, but for a small number, no matter how much they hope, they will always have an irritant reaction and can never wear minerals, no matter its’ popularity.  We disclose this fact, by using only ingredients with known lower irritant risk factors, but still, only the end user will determine what is right for their skin or how they’ll react through testing it on themselves. It may not be a single ingredient, but when used in combination with another or its presumed ratio, is where the problem lies.  So by not purchasing something because one may see a certain ingredient of concern, they may be missing out on what otherwise could be fantastic for their skin.   Always TEST…TEST…TEST the product for absolute certainty.

 

 

 

The Norm For The Beauty Industry!

~ Joseph Kellner

This was from a Facebook article that I joined in and here is the problem.

Hello,

My name is Joe and I am trying to get some advice for my wife who is way too nice. So a quick run down on the events.

My wife has worked at a spa for approximately 3-4 years before quitting for another spa. She was paid commissions of 50% and also had a $20 a month so call “booth rental”. She files a 1099 and pays all her own taxes. She was always asked to make trips to get products and called in for meetings but never compensated for her time. All products were supplied by the spa.

So upon my wife advising the owner that she was quitting because lack of steady business and comments regarding closing the hair side of the spa down, my wife was advised that she is not to contact any clients and that if she did so, she would take legal action. Please note that there was no contract of any kind signed. So my wife sent out a text and card to all of the clients that she has worked on just saying she had relocated and if they would like to schedule an appointment to please contact her. Apparently one of the clients brought in the card to the old owner and my wife was sent another text saying this is her last warning.

The very next day, one of my wife’s friends/clients that she has been doing for a long time called her to make an appointment and advised that she had received an email from the old salon stating that My wife was no longer employed at the salon and that she is offering all clients a 50% discount off of hair and free partial facial.

I personally feel that this is a low blow seeing how my wife did not stoop to that level and only sent out a card saying she had relocated. Is there anything that can be done to my wife for sending the cards or any advice you can give on how we should respond to the owners threats?

I appreciate everyone’s time and look forward to your responses.

The concerned husband,

Joe

These are some of the comments contributed by fellow professionals.

“The salon and your wife don’t own clients they get to decide for themselves. The old owner is all bark no bite”

“She should count her losses and move on. The clients who are loyal will follow her. It’s useless to fight with unreasonable people and it sounds as though her former employer is clueless. She’s not under a contract so your wife can contact whomever she pleases, the consumer will make a choice.”

“There was nothing written in contract, and actually, the employer can get in deep trouble for charging rent AND being considered having an employee. You can’t be both. It’s too gray- she was not paying your wife’s employment tax, yet treating her like an employee. Legally, your wife would have been responsible for everything, supplies etc. she charged her rent to get past paying her employees taxes/minimum wage. Of course the owner wanted to try to retain the clients but since there was no non compete….. id tell your wife to tell her former salon that if she doesn’t stop harassing her, she will report them for unfair labor practices.”

“All you need to do is tell the old salon owner that you will be filing an SS-8 with the IRS to determine if your wife was in fact an commissions or a booth renter and if it’s found that your wife was an employee, then the salon owner will be responsible for back taxes AND will most likely be fined by the IRS for tax’s. You may share this website for verification to the salon owner so she doesn’t think you aren’t meaning business. Whether you actually do it or not is up to you. It appear as if your wife has been classified and you probably should file. You won’t need a lawyer if you get the IRS involved. You can also file with your state’s labor relations board. They aren’t quite as effective as the IRS, though. This is serious business with the IRS. They do not like to be fooled by the tax payers! As someone who has had to deal with them over an unemployment insurance issue, trust me…they have no mercy! (I’m all legit now! I pleaded no knowledge and they let me get away with it once! I had to pay a pretty stiff fine, though!) Don’t be afraid to let the salon owner know that you aren’t afraid to call the IRS. Quite honestly, your wife should not have had to pay taxes all these years.”

SAD!!!

This is the Beauty/Cosmetic Industry. If no contracts were signed she has every right to contact the client. Also the owner has every right also. If the harassment continues from the owner such as the emails stated. Please acquire a cease and desist order against her. And then enjoy your lives. These tactics from the owner are ol school tactics of intimidation. But the owner has every right also just like the employee to keep the business. Since she provide the clients to your loved one. Two way street, this is beauty business and this is how it goes. Its like a whores business, Pimp and Prostitute. It will never change. sir. Primitive industry. Good days, really? It is a lovely craft, but after making 2 documentary’s of the industry. Nothing has changed. Its a free for all. Yes the only way of changing the industry is being a mentor and a role model. Many good MEN and WOMEN are used in this industry. You are really seeing the corporate slavery now. It is hard for all the youngsters coming out to make a living. On the payroll percentages corporations and independent owners are paying. So many professionals I see are taken advantage of. All for GREED, Disgusting.  I don’t see this profession as a viable form of income. Anymore. Unless you are with a Union or the Film/Entertainment Industry. But I love the craft you can always keep learning. I like craft more now since I do makeup and photography and films. You can really learn a lot combining the three crafts. I now just concentrate on the craft. I no longer friend people in the industry. I have found out anyone can be anyone on the internet. So I surround myself with like minded people and stay away from the so called “Stars”.  Internet stars that is! lololol

 

The Slow Political Destruction Of The Beauty Industry By The Greedy!

~ Joseph Kellner

California Licensed Estheticians & Consumers OPPOSE SB 296

We, your California Licensed Estheticians, Cosmetologists and California consumers, collectively OPPOSE SB 296, allowing nail techs to perform waxing services on their clients.  We do not oppose pursuing Continuing Education and we welcome anyone to join us by obtaining their license as an esthetician. We hold great concern for California consumers, our clients, and risks to public health that the passing of SB 296 will exacerbate.  The temptation of a quickie brow or other waxing service at the nail shop has caused traumatic injury to the consumers of California way too often. Consumers do not know that it is currently illegal for their nail tech to provide these services.

With the passing of this bill 130,000 licensed nail techs and those licensed while the bill is enacted and put into effect, potentially will be allowed to provide these services legally; without proper training and specific understanding of “how skin works”.In your Strategic Plan, you state that the “DCA protects and serves consumers in many ways, including…. Supporting and advocating for consumer interests BEFORE lawmakers. DCA staff review and analyze proposed legislation and regulations to ensure that consumers are protected.” 

The passing of this bill will only serve to VALIDATE THE ILLEGAL ACTIVITY and injury caused to consumers that 21 overwhelmed BBC inspectors have failed to “catch in the act” thus far. With respect and as your stakeholders AND consumers, we ask that you OPPOSE SB 296 for the greater good of California consumers and California licensees that work diligently to protect them.  

Who we are:
From California Aesthetic Alliance and California Estheticians • Esthetician Advocacy. We are grassroots California Licensed Estheticians and Cosmetologists, licensed by the Board of Barbering and Cosmetology as part of the California Department of Consumer Affairs.

Wendy A. Jacobs
California Licensed Esthetician
Founder, California Aesthetic Alliance

SIGN THE PETITION PLEASE.

Same Problem, Same Comments! Nothing will Change.

~ Joseph Kellner

All available under one roof! And at prices salons couldn’t even get it on the shelf for!! Well done

Its the same old same old story in the beauty industry. “DON’T’ buy these products in a store there tampered with. There bootlegged products, brouhaha. Get real people. Professionals keep on whining about how there products are on the internet, in a store. WA WA WA.  This story is written from a add on Facebook so I thought I would give the advertisement my 2 cents.

Why do all of you get excited over this. More than 70 percent use these products and sell them in there salons. You pay for a ticket at a hair show and you learn from these company’s. You join PBA and they support those companies. BTC supports those companies, yet you will like and copy and paste there literature in your walls. Actions speak louder than words my friends. There getting there’s and your getting yours. Why bother. But you will still support the shows, websites, and product lines. And join the organizations.

Reply’s to my comment!

I quit buying from products from supply houses and quit using a certain line when it came out with their own box color. I don’t support lines and companies that don’t support me. I make my retail even when I’m not standing behind the chair and I don’t have to watch my products/my money sit on the shelf and collect dust. I’m tired of giving my hard earned money to big companies that could give a crap if we are out be they want to make money.

All these products are bought directly from manufacturers and sold to supermarkets.. they are not out of date … just cheaper

When a distributor”s contract with a company like TIGI or Any of the other’s, is terminated they sell their inventory to discount stores. We get angry at that company when we need to hold distributors​ accountable for how they sell off products they legally can not sell.

The big companies ARE selling it. End of story

I don’t know why people get so shocked about this anymore. It’s nothing new. “Diversion” isn’t real.
Manufacturers sell to whoever they want.

If you stock product that shows up in a supermarkets. You should dump your supplier and find an exclusively salon one.

THIS WILL NEVER CHANGE MY FRIENDS, NEVER!

 

The Real Hair Truth

~ Joseph Kellner

 

Are you doing something about it in your business?

Yes you can go into these super stores of beauty and just about find anything you want inside of them.  Perfumes, cosmetics, makeup, hair care, even hair color. They have a salon to also get you hair styled and whatever else. But to the real professional who has some form of professionalism inside of them. It is merely a flea market like the hair shows.  So how could you work in a company who sell boxed hair color to the consumers coming into the store. And then at the same time work in their salon. I would love to know. That to me is a sign of being in competition with your employer.

But the days of loyalty are gone. That is from a manufacturer and as I might also say from the consumer also. Pity my profession. A lot of the profession has been sliced and diced. You have nail salons to go to, Spa’s to go to. And now Salons who go ahead and offer Blow-Drying and Makeup also. The day of the salon being the place to get your beauty needs done are over. This also increases a lot of competition with in the industry with the professionals. Too many stores create an over saturation of the industry.

Leaving many professionals with out jobs and too much competition.  Nothing wrong with that but from the studio I work at by myself there must be at least 20-30 booth rental and salon advertisements to compete with. Salons now are a dime a dozen. Every strip mall built-in Orlando has a dry cleaner, salon and liquor store in them. Too many salons and too many places to purchase my professional tools, products etc.  But within my industry there are a few factions who bestow the honor of calling themselves “Representatives Of Our Beauty Industry”.  They want you to think they are there for you, but they are merely representatives of the manufacturers.

These organizations who charge over $300.00 to join say they are the “Professional Beauty Association” To represent you on all and every issue governmental to state rulings and passing of laws concerning the Beauty Industry. Believe me everyone they are a scam also. especially when the are buying the hair shows up. I always thought that if you are an oversight committee that you should remain neutral in your preferences within the Beauty Industry. But sit back and investigate for yourself and you will find out they do nothing for you as a professional in the Beauty industry.  Other than giving you a discount to their hair shows.

So many in the industry are keen to my voice and other voices have raised up to take part in informing the professional what it is all about “NOW”. Many new independent company’s are forming and the  Independent social media has taken a HUGE chunk in the education and commentary aspects of the industry. Bravo!  Informing others who and what is really out there now in the industry and who is for the industry etc. A few years ago I seen this gentleman come out of the shadows and live off his daddy’s coat tails. Selling a new product for all in the industry. Claiming,” this will change the industry” my new shampoo and conditioner.. Take it from me when some one speaks of that nature they are merely a “Snake Oil Salesman”. He made a little money but what sold it was is daddy’s last name. This guy didn’t know the difference from a hair pin and a bobby pin. But since he USED his daddy’s name he sold a few bottles and made his money and “WALLAH” he took a boogie out of the industry. Never to be seen again. I can still hear him laughing.

Times change and so do people, this was a very important to me to say a few words. I don’t lose sleep over these action anymore within my industry. I take it for what it is and how it could have been stopped, but never was.  I hold my “CRAFT’ in high regards but when it comes down to the “ELITES” of my industry there words and praises me little to me.  I used to have mentors but that is a big word to me now, which holds a lot of respect but from what I see none can fill those shoes.. Now I just have one mentor and he is the greatest of them all.

Trust me he wont sell me out.

And that’s how I feel.   The Real Hair Truth